I almost skipped Francis Bay entirely. I had already spent three days working my way through the beaches of Virgin Islands National Park, and my sunburn was reaching a shade of red that my dermatologist would not approve of. But a ranger at the visitor center in Cruz Bay told me that Francis Bay was the spot where he went on his days off. That was enough to change my plans.
He was right. Francis Bay turned out to be one of the best beaches I visited on St. John, and I have kicked myself for nearly leaving it off the list. It does not have the name recognition of Trunk Bay or the sea turtle crowds of Maho Bay, but what it lacks in fame it makes up for in peace, clear water, and some of the best snorkeling on the island.
Where Is Francis Bay?
Francis Bay sits on the north shore of St. John, just west of Maho Bay. The two bays share a coastline separated by a rocky point called Maho Point, and you can actually walk between them along the beach if the tide cooperates. Francis Bay is about a 20-minute drive from Cruz Bay, where the ferry from St. Thomas drops you off.
There are two ways to reach the beach. You can park at Maho Bay and walk west along the shoreline about half a mile past Maho Point, which is the scenic route and gives you a nice sense of discovery when Francis Bay opens up in front of you. Or you can drive past Maho Bay, continue toward the Annaberg Ruins, and use the dedicated Francis Bay parking lot. From the lot, the beach is about a 100-foot walk down a short path.
I recommend sandals for the walk from the parking lot. The ground between the lot and the sand is rocky and uneven, and I watched two folks in flip-flops have a rough time of it. Something with a strap, like a basic sport sandal, will save you some trouble.
What Makes Francis Bay Special
Francis Bay is a crescent of white sand backed by sea grape trees and coconut palms, with the green hillsides of St. John rising behind it. The water is that ridiculous shade of Caribbean turquoise that looks photoshopped in pictures but is even more vivid in person. I shot about 200 frames here, and every single one needed the saturation pulled back in post because the raw files looked unrealistically blue.
The bay faces north, which means it catches the trade winds and stays comfortable even on the hottest days. It also means the water stays calm most of the time, with gentle swells that barely qualify as waves. This makes Francis Bay excellent for swimming with kids, floating on your back, or just wading in up to your waist and staring at the horizon while your brain goes quiet.
The crowd situation is the real selling point. On the day I visited (a Saturday in February), there were maybe 15 people on the entire beach. Trunk Bay, by comparison, had what looked like 200. Maho Bay was somewhere in between. Francis Bay attracts folks who already know the island, and that self-selecting crowd keeps things mellow.
Snorkeling at Francis Bay
The snorkeling at Francis Bay is excellent and, in some ways, better than the more famous spots on the island. While Trunk Bay has its underwater trail (which is admittedly cool), Francis Bay has a rockier bottom with more coral structure, which means more fish and more interesting things to look at below the surface.
I spotted green sea turtles within 10 minutes of getting in the water. They were grazing on seagrass in the shallows, completely unbothered by my presence. I also saw rays gliding along the bottom, schools of blue tang, and a handful of parrotfish working over the coral. The visibility was roughly 40 to 50 feet, which is about as good as Caribbean snorkeling gets.
A few important notes on the turtles. Green sea turtles are protected under the Endangered Species Act, and it is a federal crime to touch one. I know the temptation is real when one swims within arm’s reach, but keep your hands to yourself and maintain a respectful distance. The turtles at Francis Bay are accustomed to snorkelers and will not flee if you stay calm and give them space.
Bring your own snorkel gear if you can. I used a basic mask and snorkel set that cost about $30 and it worked great. If you do not have gear, there are rental shops in Cruz Bay that will set you up for the day.
The Francis Bay Boardwalk and Bird Sanctuary
One thing that sets Francis Bay apart from other beaches on St. John is the boardwalk trail that leads through a small mangrove wetland and bird sanctuary at the eastern end of the bay. The boardwalk is short, maybe a quarter mile, but it passes through habitat that supports herons, pelicans, and several species of shorebirds.
I saw brown pelicans diving for fish just offshore during my visit, which is always entertaining to watch. The birds fold their wings and drop like missiles into the water, then bob back up with (sometimes) a mouthful of fish. I could have watched them for an hour.
The boardwalk trail also connects to the Annaberg Ruins, the remains of a Danish sugar plantation that dates to the 1700s. It is a sobering and important historical site that provides context for the colonial history of the Virgin Islands. If you are at Francis Bay, the short walk to Annaberg is well worth the detour.
Best Time to Visit Francis Bay
Francis Bay faces east-northeast, which makes it a strong sunrise spot. If you are an early riser, getting to the beach before 7 AM rewards you with soft golden light on the water and the sand, and you will likely have the place entirely to yourself.
For swimming and snorkeling, midday is ideal. The sun is high enough to illuminate the bottom clearly, which makes spotting turtles and fish much easier. The trade winds also tend to pick up in the afternoon, so getting your snorkeling done before 2 PM gives you the calmest water.
In terms of season, I recommend visiting between December and April. This is the dry season in the Virgin Islands, and while “dry” is relative in the Caribbean (rain showers come and go quickly year-round), you will generally get more sun and less humidity during these months. This window also falls after hurricane season, which officially ends November 30.
Photographing Francis Bay
The best vantage point for photographing Francis Bay is not from the beach itself. It is from America Hill Ruins, a short but steep hike that takes you to the remains of an old plantation house perched on the hillside above the bay. From up there, you get a wide-angle view of the entire crescent of white sand, the turquoise water, and the green hillsides framing it all. On a clear day, you can see across to the British Virgin Islands.
I shot Francis Bay from America Hill with a 24-70mm lens and got the framing I wanted at about 35mm. The hike is only about 15 minutes from the road, but the trail is steep and exposed, so bring water and go in the morning or late afternoon when the light is better and the heat is less punishing.
From the beach level, sunrise is your best bet for photography. The light comes in low across the water and catches the palm fronds in a way that looks like a postcard. I shot a few frames at f/8, ISO 100, with a polarizer to cut the glare off the water, and they are some of my favorite images from the trip.
What to Know Before You Go
Sunscreen. Many conventional sunscreens have been banned in the Virgin Islands due to chemicals that damage coral reefs. Bring a reef-safe sunscreen and apply it generously. The Caribbean sun is no joke, especially when you are snorkeling and your back is exposed for extended periods.
Water and snacks. There are no concessions at Francis Bay. Bring everything you need for the day. A cooler with cold water, some sandwiches, and fruit will make your visit significantly more comfortable.
Parking. The Francis Bay lot is small, maybe 15 to 20 spaces. Arrive before 10 AM on weekends to guarantee a spot. If the lot is full, you can park at Maho Bay and walk over.
Getting to St. John. There is no airport on St. John. Fly into Cyril E. King Airport on St. Thomas and take the ferry from either Red Hook (closer to St. John, about 20 minutes) or Charlotte Amalie (longer ride but closer to the airport). The ferry costs $20 each way per adult. Once on St. John, you will need a rental car or a taxi to reach Francis Bay.
Swimming and Water Safety at Francis Bay
The swimming at Francis Bay is about as forgiving as Caribbean water gets. The bay is protected from open ocean swells, the bottom drops off gradually, and the currents are mild. I am not a particularly strong swimmer, and I felt completely comfortable here.
That said, a few common-sense precautions apply. The rocky sections near the edges of the bay can be slippery, and stepping on sea urchins is a real possibility if you wander off the sandy areas without water shoes. Jellyfish do show up occasionally, though I did not encounter any during my visit. And while the turtles and rays are harmless, giving them space is both a legal requirement and the right thing to do.
For families with young kids, the shallow, calm water near the center of the beach is ideal. I watched several families with toddlers playing in ankle-deep water that barely rippled. It was the kind of scene that makes you understand why people fall in love with St. John and never quite get over it.
Hurricane Maria and Recovery
I want to address this because it comes up in every conversation about the Virgin Islands. Hurricane Maria hit St. John in September 2017 and caused devastating damage across the island. Many of the older photos you find online show beaches and hillsides that looked quite different before the storm.
Francis Bay weathered the hurricane better than some other spots on the island, but the surrounding vegetation took a beating. The good news is that the tropics recover fast, and by the time I visited, the canopy had regrown significantly. The beach itself, the water, the snorkeling, all of that is as good as it has ever been.
All of the photos in this article show the bay in its current, post-hurricane condition. What you see is what you will get, and what you will get is beautiful.
Nearby Spots Worth Exploring
Francis Bay sits in one of the richest corners of Virgin Islands National Park, and there is plenty to fill a full day or more in this area.
Maho Bay is right next door and is the island’s most reliable spot for swimming with sea turtles. The beach has a sandier bottom than Francis Bay, which makes it a slightly easier snorkeling experience for beginners.
Annaberg Ruins sit at the eastern end of the Francis Bay boardwalk trail and provide a window into the island’s colonial sugar plantation history. The ruins are well-preserved and the interpretive signs are thoughtful and informative.
Waterlemon Cay is a short drive east and offers some of the best snorkeling on St. John. The swim out to the cay is about 200 yards through calm water, and the coral around the island is teeming with fish.
Cinnamon Bay has a longer beach, a campground, and its own set of ruins to explore. Honeymoon Beach, accessible by trail from the Caneel Bay area, is another quieter alternative to the big-name beaches.
Final Thoughts
Francis Bay is the kind of beach that makes you question why you ever bother with crowded, overdeveloped resort destinations. It is a protected bay inside a national park, with clean water, abundant marine life, and a fraction of the crowds you will find at the island’s marquee beaches.
I spent about five hours at Francis Bay on my visit. I snorkeled for two, napped under a sea grape tree for one, and spent the rest just sitting in the shallows watching pelicans hunt. It was one of those days that reminds you why you travel in the first place.
If you are planning a trip to Virgin Islands National Park, do not skip Francis Bay. It is where the rangers go on their days off, and that tells you everything you need to know.
